In one type, the decayed area has a brown discoloration and a crumbly appearance. **There are two main classes of wood rot.
Green (unseasoned) lumber is a prime target for decay fungi. Most wood decay fungi grow only on wood with a high moisture content, usually 20 percent or above. **The key to preventing rot is to control the wood’s exposure to moisture and to employ an effective prevention and treatment program. However, there are no mud tunnels or mines in the wood such as seen with termite and other wood-destroying insects, nor is there any sawdust, which would be evident in the case of carpenter ant damage. **Blame for this destruction is sometimes incorrectly placed on termites or other wood-destroying insects. Current estimates show that replacement materials, needed to repair damage caused by rot alone, account for nearly 10 percent of U.S. They see it in structural lumber, log homes, eaves, garage doors, exterior door trim, window casings and other wood used in construction. **Many homeowners are familiar with wood damage caused by rot.
Even if the wood looks good after some time, the client should be aware that any future wood to concrete contact should be protected by a plastic barrier. If an inspector sees framing in a basement that has no plastic barrier under it, they should inform the purchaser of this situation. That is why anyone finishing a basement, no matter what age, should always place a plastic barrier under the wood. It is a continuous action of moisture.Įven if a plastic barrier is placed under the concrete before a pour, it will over years, wick some small amounts of moisture. Most times if you see a concrete floor painted, the paint will eventually lift off in some places. Concrete, even on gravel, will wick a small amount of moisture out of the soil it is placed on over the years. One of the biggest areas that concrete is poured, is a basement. I have worked with concrete and masonry over 25 years and have seen this millions of times. It just can’t be from the initial pour alone IMHO. It might have to do with its ability to act like a desiccant, adsorbing water out of the air like a sponge and then keeping the wood in contact wet. These can be placed at the time of delivery, straight off the truck! You can contact us and we can supply you with details of companies that are familiar with our product who can provide freight and installation.There has to be something more to it than just the water from the initial pour. Most farm machinery, forklifts, diggers and hi-ab trucks can lift the concrete blocks without a problem. Many of our customers provide their own freight and place their own concrete blocks. The interlocking pattern is simple and effective and will allow for fast installation saving time and money. All our lifters are certified and tagged. There are sloped blocks to finish the end or you can build a structure with straight ends.Īs our blocks do not have lifting lugs available, we loan out our lifting device so that you can positioned your concrete block structure at the time of delivery. There are also blocks that have a top flat surface than rather adding a top flat block. They come in 3 different sizes, small, medium and large.
These interlocking blocks allow your wall to be modified at any stage by adding to it or taking blocks away.
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